19th hole: away from the clubhouse, Tavira offers a different angle on the Algarve

It was all golf and British bars on my first visit in the Eighties — so why would it be any ­better now?

On this occasion, I confess, I was there for just that — a long weekend with golf and as much of the “real” Algarve as I could pack in.

You get what you pay for with Algarve green fees; certain holes at Vale do Lobo were Masters-like in appearance, while a relatively new course at Monte Rei, in the foothills of the Serra do Caldeirao mountains and designed by Jack Nicklaus, was as challenging as you'd find anywhere.

Away from the clubhouses, though, there's still character and charm. Particularly in Tavira, which some call the Venice of the Algarve, with its seven-arched Roman bridge across the River Gilao and whitewashed houses, with storks on the chimney pots.

It also has old Moorish remains and brightly coloured fishing boats on the quayside.
The place to stay is the 16th-century Graca Convent, turned into elegant accommodation by Pousadas of ­Portugal. The architecture is pure Renaissance with a Moorish twist.

Tavira's old town has that doziness I love in so many Portuguese and Spanish towns. It's only a half-hour drive from Faro, gateway to the Algarve, itself just a two-hour flight from London.

I asked a bored-looking teenager where the real action was in town — he shrugged, and pointed in jest to the 16th-century church of Misericordia next to the castle and the resting place of Dom Paio Correia, who reclaimed Tavira from the Moors.

A bit harsh, as there are plenty of little bars and fish restaurants down at the waterfront. Though even here you're more likely to be rubbing shoulders with old boys playing cards than encountering a big night out.

Try A Ver Tavira, where the terrace offers ­great views over the rooftops, or Churrasqueira O Manel.

Nature lovers will love the Ria Formosa National Park, with its herons, flamingos and egrets. And a ferry ride from the town market will take you to Ihla de Tavira and the 11km of unspoilt beach at Armon.

Other highlights include the quaint fishing village of Cacela Velha and and market town of São Brás d'Alportel.

There's plenty of old Portugal left in the south — it just takes a bit of scouting around.

WAY TO GO

British Airways flies daily from Gatwick to Faro from £120.10 return from 9 June, www.ba.com. Doubles at Pousada Convento da Graça from £90 per night B&B, www.pousadas.pt.

From 1 June to 15 September, Monte Rei Golf & Country Club (www.monterei.com) is offering 18 holes, buggy hire, transfer from hotel plus tapas lunch at the Grill restaurant for €190pp. For 8am to 9.30am tee-offs only. www.visitportugal.com