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Secret Europe: The hidden gems you can enjoy from rural Portugal
 
 

It's hard to sympathise with people who travel to cities and then complain about the endless traffic, rude people on the metro and bikes hurtling towards them as they gingerly cross the road. these are the reasons these places are called 'cities'.

Otherwise they would be called 'the Norfolk Broads' or 'the Black Forest'. That said, who doesn't enjoy a more rural escape now and then?

It gives us the chance to unwind amid the splendours of nature and soak up the bucolic life, free of noise pollution, office workers and having to decide between eight different types of latte in the café; every morning.

Take an average, popular holiday destination such as Portugal. sure, there are great resorts along the Algarve coast and cultural delights aplenty in Lisbon, but, instead of swimming with the tide, consider the following itinerary. 

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Falling for Croatia: See cascading waterfalls at the beautiful Plitvice Lakes National Park

Douro River Valley, Portugal

Fly into Oporto in the north and head out into the surrounding countryside for an experience a world away from the beach-umbrella fights, overpriced cocktails and signs advertising fried English breakfasts.

Portugal Car Hire

Colourful creation: A traditional ceramic rooster from Barcelos, Portugal

Little-known towns such as Barcelos have fascinating experiences lying in wait. It's in this medieval walled town that one of the most famous symbols of Portugal was created  -  the colourful ceramic cockerel.

Whether or not you choose to believe the legend that such a beast saved the life of a wrongly convicted man by crowing his innocence, these cockerels make striking souvenirs. In this town, pottery is a serious business and, winding through the streets lined with baroque houses, you'll come to stalls selling many types of ceramic product.

The Thursday market here is Europe's largest open-air market. Under 13th-century architecture, the ceramics, folk art and handicraft stalls vie for the attention o f a predominantly local clientele.

For an even more rural escape, the Douro River Valley is a fertile UNESCO World Heritage site, with vineyards sloping back from the water's edge.

Unspoiled river views complement the local wineries, especially those producing the port wine that takes its name from the region  -  Douro is the oldest demarcated wine region in the world.

Dalmatian Coast, Croatia

Elsewhere, Croatia was once completely off the beaten track, though destinations such as Dubrovnik and Zagreb are a little more familiar to us these days.

The Dalmatian Coast is tourist friendly  -  and for good reason. The Makarska riviera, a 35-mile stretch along the Adriatic sea, is overshadowed by the hulking Biokovo Mountain.

Not only is it a great resort for lolling about on the Dalmatian Coast's fantastic beaches, but it also doubles as a base for heading out to Croatia's very own Lake District: the Plitvice Lakes National Park.

This UNESCO World Heritage site consists of 16 lakes across an area of 115 sq miles. It resembles a kind of beefed-up, more action-packed version of our own Lake District, with craggy rocks and fiercely dramatic waterfalls.

 At 70 metres, the awesome and quirkily named Veliki Slap is the tallest waterfall, slicing through the dense woodland that is home to an array of local wildlife that includes deer, bears and wolves. Hiking trails thread their way through the park, giving you a chance to surround yourself with some spectacular natural wonders.

The cities of Dubrovnik, split and Zagreb sport a wealth of attractions, both historic and modern. To avoid bumping into too many crowds of camera-toting tourists, head to lesser-known regions such as the Istrian peninsula in the west of the country. There you'll find the ancient provincial capital Pula, which has Roman architecture from the first century BC. Most notable is the incredible Rovinj amphitheatre, which juts out of the town centre, imposing its iconic shape on the town.

You're unlikely to see many other holidaymakers wandering through the narrow streets, and you'll probably have the views of the ancient gates, the baroque church of st Euphemia and the UNESCO-listed basilica to yourself  -  a glorious change from bustling about for elbowroom at the Sacre-Coeur or the Sagrada Familia.

Fjällbacka, Sweden

Great cities can be fabulous springboards for an adventure among the usually hidden parts of a country. In Sweden, a trip into Gothenburg is exciting in itself, but heading north along the coast brings even greater rewards.

A one-hour drive along the fjord-flecked coastline brings you to Marstrand, a popular holiday spot for Swedes but one they have really been keeping to themselves for way too long. 

The pretty town of Fjällbacka, Sweden

Star quality: On Sweden's north-west coast lies the pretty town of Fjällbacka, once a favourite retreat of actress Ingrid Bergman

Carlsten's fortress was a jail in the 17th century, with gruesome tours of the facilities available before people watching over coffee at one of the chic waterside caf <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> és. Two hours drive through fairly unremarkable countryside brings you to Fjällbacka, the favoured getaway spot of legendary actress Ingrid Bergman. You'll see her cast in bronze in the town square.

Any time is good for exploring the 200-metre-long Ice Age rock formation that splits the town. Known as King's Cleft, this oddly shaped natural phenomenon offers views across the archipelago.

In the summer months, small boats can be chartered for seal safaris. the entire town has a wonderfully remote and tranquil atmosphere to it. The archipelago is also flush with islands, some of which have small hotels or B&Bs.

One of the most scenic and accommodating is that of Käringön (pronounced 'share-in-gan'), a 30-minute motorboat ride from the coast. Just 100 people live on the island, and the most activity you're likely to see will be a boatload of day-trippers sunbathing or browsing the craft shops.

Not much has changed on the island since the 19th century, and it's really something to watch the sunset from one of the small restaurant terraces with a glass of wine and tasty local oysters.

Sognefjord, Norway

There's a parallel experience to be had in Scandinavian neighbour Norway. Flying into Bergen is instantly relaxing, its cobbled streets and medieval houses a sight more scenic than Oslo's urban modernity.

From here you can take an express boat to the resort of Balestrand, a picturesque hamlet on the north shore of the Sognefjord. If the blossoming orchards and medieval wooden church don't inspire a rash of spontaneous photography, nothing will. 

Heather covers the banks of Sognefjord

Pretty in pink: Heather covers the banks of Sognefjord, Norway's largest fjord

Sognefjord also has a famous boat museum, based at Kaupanger. Fishing and 'ice' boats from throughout history are on display, giving a glimpse into this nation's close relationship with the sea and the fjords.

Another water-based feature is the Jostedal Glacier, the largest ice floe in mainland Europe. Recently established as a national park, the glacier lies across an area of 185 sq miles. there is a glacier museum and visitors' centre to help travellers make the most of their glacial encounter. The Blue Lagoon and the ice caves provide further adventure.

Sure, the beaten track has its advantages: swanky hotels, village-sized shopping malls and multiscreen cinemas. But heading out into lesser known parts is a balm to the traveller's soul.

How great to find a rural B&B on a tiny island, an outdoor market selling local handicrafts, or a spectacular natural show that casts waterfalls and wolves in leading roles.

All it takes is a broadening of horizons, a decision to try something out of the ordinary and some good old-fashioned research. You'll want to be able to find your way back to the beaten path, after all.

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