With the wines of France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Austria and Hungary readily available, we have learned the names of various regions and sub-regions as well as the different varieties of grape and even local wine-making terminology. The names of villages and chateaux easily flow from our tongues and we have even learned to set our sights on those local wines we desire most. Now the time has come to take another step, for even though Port wines are not new to Israel, Portugal's dry reds and whites have never made a serious appearance here. Until now - for with his first major venture into importing wines, Andre Suidan, the owner of Haifa's Special Reserve, has decided that Portugal will be his initial focus.

To put us in a "learning mode" before revealing my tasting notes: Most of the dry reds and whites I tasted came from the Estramadura region. Situated on the Atlantic Coast, north of Lisbon, this area is home to more than 95 indigenous grapes. Throughout history, this has been both a blessing and a curse, because for many years most vintners did not focus too much on what grapes were used for what wines and until recently most wines produced here were earmarked for local consumption. Of late, local vintners have become increasingly aware of the potential blessings of such variety. As a result, greater care went into the vineyards, modern equipment was brought into the wineries and the wines have improved in both quality and interest. Now being exported, the Estramadura wines offer excellent value for money. My guess is that as these wines are "discovered" over the next few years, their prices will rise.

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The most popular grapes right now (and there is no need to feel embarrassed if you do not yet know these names) are Arinto, Fernao Pires, Vital, Castelao, Camarate, Touriga Franca, Souzao and Tinta Miuda. One thing is certain: These names will become better known in the next few years.

These and the other wines reviewed today can be ordered directly from Special Reserve (109 Hanassi Ave, Haifa) by calling 04-8361187 or sending an email to Suidan@netvision.net.il. Direct sale prices are listed in the tasting notes. An 8% discount is given on orders of split cases of 6 bottles.

Casa Santos Lima, Portuga Branco, Estramadura, Portugal, 2007: An unoaked blend of indigenous Fernao Pires and Vital grapes, this light- to medium-bodied, light golden straw colored wine shows aromas and flavors of citrus, tropical fruits and bitter almonds, accompanied by refreshing acidity. Nothing complex but a very appealing quaffer. Drink now. NIS 39. Score 85.

Casa Santos Lima, Arinto Branco, Estramadura, Portugal, 2007: Light gold in color, not showing much on the nose but with appealing flavors of peaches and apricots, matched nicely by hints of lemon curd, almonds and spring flowers. A lively and crisply dry white with just enough complexity and richness to catch our attention. Drink now-2010. NIS 54. Score 87.

Casa Santos Lima, Portuga Rose, Estramadura, Portugal, 2007: Cherry-red in color, an unoaked and aromatic rose wine, showing appealing raspberry and wild berry fruits. Medium-bodied, crisply dry and with just the right touch of complexity to add interest. As good with roast chicken as with simple fish or seafood dishes. Drink now. NIS 39. Score 86.

Casa Santos Lima, Portuga Tinto, Estramadura, Portugal, 2007: Oak-aged for about four months, a medium-bodied, softly tannic blend of Castelao, Touriga Franca, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah grapes. Dark ruby toward garnet, with light notes of sweet cedar wood to highlight black and red berry fruits. Not complex but a very pleasant quaffer. Drink now. NIS 39. Score 85.

Casa Santos Lima, Tinto Cao, Estramadura, Portugal, 2007: Made entirely from Tinto Cao grapes, oak-aged for about six months, showing dark ruby to garnet in color. Medium-bodied, with appealing red currant, plum and wild berry fruits, supported by a hint of dark chocolate. A round, easy-to-drink, country-style wine with tannins and spices rising on the finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 89. Score 88.

Casa Santos Lima, Souzao, Estramadura, Portugal, 2007: Full-bodied, with firm tannins and spicy wood notes, integrating nicely to show black fruits, plums, chocolate and light notes of freshly cut Mediterranean herbs. Long and concentrated, calls to mind a fine Merlot. Intriguing. Drink now-2011. NIS 69. Score 87.

Casa Santos Lima, Quinta de Bons-Ventos, Estramadura, Portugal, 2007: A traditional Estramadura potpourri but one that works well. A blend of Castelao, Camarate, Tinta Miuda and Touriga Nacional grapes, developed in oak for about four months. Showing a clean, aromatic nose with a hint of spicy wood. On the palate generous blackberry, red currant and red plums, set against a backdrop of red licorice. Good hints of complexity here along with a mouth-filling finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 45. Score 86.

Casa Santos Lima, 4Uvas (Quarto Uvas), Estramadura, Portugal, 2007: Indeed four grapes - but don't be overly concerned if you've never heard of them: Castelao, Alfocheiro, Camarate and Trincadeira are hardly the best-known varieties on the planet. A successful blend, with gentle oaking, dark ruby toward garnet in color, with hints of spices and spicy wood that part to reveal appealing blackberry and blackcurrant fruits along with notes of dark chocolate and licorice. Generous acidity rises on the finish, making this wine best with lamb or veal dishes. Drink now. NIS 48. Score 86.

Quinta do Portal, Tinto, Douro, Portugal, 2006: Firm, full-bodied and with gripping tannins only now starting to reside. A blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, and Touriga Nacional grapes, aged for 9 months in French oak, showing red fruits but not so much a fruity wine as it is one that boasts herbal, chocolate and licorice notes, opening to reveal tobacco and spices, all leading to a long, mouth-filling finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 88. Score 89.

Quinta do Portal, Reserva, Douro, Portugal, 2005: Dark garnet, full-bodied, and with generous but well-balanced notes of spicy wood and kirsch liqueur, melding nicely with aromas and flavors of cherries, plums, dark chocolate and licorice, all leading to a generous and long finish. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca (70%, 20% and 10% respectively). Drink now-2013. NIS 145. Score 90.

Quinta do Portal, Grande Reserva, Douro, Portugal, 2003: A traditional Douro blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca (in this case 50% and 25% each respectively), aged 14 months in new French barriques. Concentrated and deep, this one opens with a hint of iodine on the nose, which blows off in a few seconds. The full-bodied wine opens with dark cherries, blackberries and notes of kirsch liqueur, on a background of dark chocolate and espresso coffee. Drinking very nicely now but do not hesitate to cellar until 2018. NIS 220. Score 93.

By Daniel Rogov